Monday, April 25, 2011
What types of F2P games are your favarite?
For me, I like MMORPG most ,as it plunge me lots of time to playing it, forgeting time.
Alpine NVE-P1 navigation map update rip off
Anyone else purchase an Alpine NVE-P1 navigation unit for their Alpine head unit? These units were $300 new and you were supposed to be able to update the maps and POI via usb computer connection. No software or map updates were ever made available. Now Alpine is charging you $99 to exhange your old unit with a new one with updated software and maps. Smacks of consumer fraud to me. Considereing filing a lawsuit.
Reply 1 : Alpine NVE-P1 navigation map update rip off
A few months ago I had to get our second GPS unit as we moved towns and I didn't have time to learn the area. So I went with some 130 buck Garmin.
Given no cash income for maps, maybe they had to do this or go under?
Bob
Given no cash income for maps, maybe they had to do this or go under?
Bob
Reply 2 : Alpine NVE-P1 navigation map update rip off
I'm in the same situation and wonder if you ever found an update solution that didn't include giving $99 to Alpine?
Thanks.
John
Thanks.
John
i7-940XM temp
I installed a 940xm last week;according to RealTemp I'm running in the mid to upper 50's at an idle. Is that to hot?
you did it correctly but i guess you idle temps are a bit too high... my idle hovers from 38-42 but I am from a cold place so may be its that....try repasting your card with "PEA" technique... you should put a pea-like drop over the shiny part and dont release the pressure on the heat-sink until you screwed down everything. 
Or may be it's just the curing time of the Paste you used. I would think the perfect working time for any paste would be 25-30 hours of PC usage.
Reply 1 : i7-940XM temp
Did you put thermal paste on it? Also depends of the ambient temperature.
Reply 2 : i7-940XM temp
You would prefer idle temps in the 40-45C range. (Ambient temp ~72F)
Reply 3 : i7-940XM temp
Yes I put thermal paste on it. I didn't put in on the entire surface of the cpu though only on the shiny part;it's about 1/2" by 3/4". Was I supposed to cover the entire surface; the part around the shiny surface had these little copper things on all 4 sides so I thought best not to cover them. Is it possible this cpu is too much for this pc?
Reply 4 : i7-940XM temp
http://forum.notebookreview.com/atta...1&d=1302709069 here's a picture of it
Reply 5 : i7-940XM temp
No just a drop in the middle of the die (shiny bit) should do fine. Have you checked power saver in throttlestop? Perhaps drop the TDP and TCP down a bit if you were keeping the settings that I told you when overclocking it in the other thread.
Reply 6 : i7-940XM temp
http://forum.notebookreview.com/atta...1&d=1302710131 heres a snapshot
Reply 7 : i7-940XM temp
Your ThrottleStop screen shot shows that Chipset Clock Modulation throttling is being used on your laptop and is severely hurting your CPU performance. The Chip column shows 37.5 for each thread which means your CPU is operating at less than half of its intended performance level.
I haven't kept up on what bios version was supposed to have fixed this common M15x problem so you will have to ask other owners. The Chip column should always be showing 100.0 which shows your CPU running at its full potential and not being throttled. Do some wPrime testing and you will quickly see how a Chip setting of 37.5 kills performance.
High GPU temps or excessive power consumption can trigger this problem.
I haven't kept up on what bios version was supposed to have fixed this common M15x problem so you will have to ask other owners. The Chip column should always be showing 100.0 which shows your CPU running at its full potential and not being throttled. Do some wPrime testing and you will quickly see how a Chip setting of 37.5 kills performance.
High GPU temps or excessive power consumption can trigger this problem.
Reply 8 : i7-940XM temp
That is an odd looking T-Stop screenshot. What were your TDP/TDC settings at the time that SS was taken? What are/were your 5850m's temps?
Reply 9 : i7-940XM temp
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by usmc362 
Yes I put thermal paste on it. I didn't put in on the entire surface of the cpu though only on the shiny part;it's about 1/2" by 3/4". Was I supposed to cover the entire surface; the part around the shiny surface had these little copper things on all 4 sides so I thought best not to cover them. Is it possible this cpu is too much for this pc?
|
Or may be it's just the curing time of the Paste you used. I would think the perfect working time for any paste would be 25-30 hours of PC usage.
most battery efficient browser?
ive read that ie9 seems to be the most battery effeicient browser. however when comparing it (non-scientifically) to my default chrome with adblock, chrome seems to last longer on battery.
what is the most efficient stock browser and what is the most efficient browser with extensions atm?
Not officially, but you can find a few different options if you Google for it.
Also, for Opera users, note that there is Flash-blocking built-in, which will definitely help battery life. Press Ctrl + F12, go to the Advanced tab, select Content, then tick "Enable plugins only on demand." Then, Flash elements will be replaced by a "play" symbol that you click once to activate.
i did search for an ie9 solution but the reviews and comments were mostly negative.
im waiting for a more effective solution, does ie have an official website where you can d/l tried, tested and secure extensions like you can for ff and chrome?
what is the most efficient stock browser and what is the most efficient browser with extensions atm?
Reply 1 : most battery efficient browser?
Extensions are a whole other variable.
IE9 should be the best. Firefox comes up second, Chrome third, Opera close behind Chrome and equal/ahead in some cases.
IE9 should be the best. Firefox comes up second, Chrome third, Opera close behind Chrome and equal/ahead in some cases.
Reply 2 : most battery efficient browser?
According to the Opera dev team, some pretty significant tweaks were made to improve power efficiency in the most recent revision (11.10), so I'm not sure how accurate those numbers are. IE9 does seem to have the best hardware acceleration I've seen so far (at least on my X120e), so I wouldn't be surprised if it did turn out to be the most power-efficient.
Reply 3 : most battery efficient browser?
Those tweaks are likely linked to GPU acceleration, which was just introduced in Opera.
And yeah, IE9 has the best GPU acceleration and I'd say Chrome has the worst.
And yeah, IE9 has the best GPU acceleration and I'd say Chrome has the worst.
Reply 4 : most battery efficient browser?
ah gpu acceleration.
i think ie9 is indeed leveraging my gpu and in doing so it ends up using more power.
my gpu idles quite well but im guessing that when flash uses it, it causes a significant power draw.
i think that and the use of adblock in google chrome seem to be the reason why i get much better battery life with chrome...
i think ie9 is indeed leveraging my gpu and in doing so it ends up using more power.
my gpu idles quite well but im guessing that when flash uses it, it causes a significant power draw.
i think that and the use of adblock in google chrome seem to be the reason why i get much better battery life with chrome...
Reply 5 : most battery efficient browser?
Yeah, AdBlock might play a big part in this. Either disable it on Chrome for the comparison, or get an ad blocker for IE as well, otherwise you're comparing apples to oranges.
Reply 6 : most battery efficient browser?
maybe but im thinking gpu acceleration might have a bigger impact
and i dont think ie9 has an adblock or any ad filter out yet
and i dont think ie9 has an adblock or any ad filter out yet
Reply 7 : most battery efficient browser?
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by trvelbug
and i dont think ie9 has an adblock or any ad filter out yet
|
Also, for Opera users, note that there is Flash-blocking built-in, which will definitely help battery life. Press Ctrl + F12, go to the Advanced tab, select Content, then tick "Enable plugins only on demand." Then, Flash elements will be replaced by a "play" symbol that you click once to activate.
Reply 8 : most battery efficient browser?
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by MidnightSun
Not officially, but you can find a few different options if you Google for it.
Also, for Opera users, note that there is Flash-blocking built-in, which will definitely help battery life. Press Ctrl + F12, go to the Advanced tab, select Content, then tick "Enable plugins only on demand." Then, Flash elements will be replaced by a "play" symbol that you click once to activate. |
im waiting for a more effective solution, does ie have an official website where you can d/l tried, tested and secure extensions like you can for ff and chrome?
Reply 9 : most battery efficient browser?
ok i just installed simpleadblock as it seems like the safest and most popular ie9 ad blocking solution. it gets soso reviews though but ill see how it goes...
DeathAdder Black Edition, G700 or Performance MX?
So I am currently using a regular DeathAdder 3500 and I like it very much, except for the fact that Razer drivers are not the best in the business and it does it finicky in small movement sensitivity.
However recently I smashed my corded Microsoft keyboard in a fit of nerdrage over a session of BC2, so I ended up getting a wireless Logitech K340 Keyboard, since I wanted to go cordless for a while. However, I realized that he K340 has Unity, so I was curious of getting a G700 or Performance MX to tie it with.
However, I have heard that the Performance MX is not a good of a gaming mouse and the G700 has some battery life woes and some sensor finickyness when being used wirelessly. So I have decided to might just get the cooler-looking DeathAdder Black Edition and return my K340 for the HP Wireless Elite keyboard to further saving my space profile on my cramped desk.
So fellow people, which mouse you think is better? Do you think Performance MX is a good move to wireless coming from a regular DeathAdder, the G700 a good move, or stick with the corded DeathAdder?
I don't mind charging it everyday really, but it is the small finicky sensitivity I am worried about regarding the G700. Otherwise, I would of easily decided on the G700 and its heavy price tag.
Also, I made an error in my posting, I am currently favoring to get the upgraded DeathAdder and stick with corded mice over wireless but is there anyone here that can address if the Performance MX is capable of good gaming performance despite being 1500dpi and the G700 still good as a wireless mouse, despite its finickiness?
I don't know if this is a deal-breaker for you, but I'm fairly certain the G700 is not compatible with the unifying receiver; you'll need to plug in its own USB receiver.
I can't comment on the G700's performance, as I don't own it. As for the Performance MX, its main issue is not DPI, but polling/response time. Pretty much any gaming-grade mouse has 1,000Hz polling, which yields 1ms response time. A "normal" mouse like the Performance MX has only 125Hz polling, and an 8ms response time. That increased delay is the main issue with non-gaming mice.
As for the DeathAdder, why get the Black Edition if you already have the regular 3,500 DPI model? It's the same sensor; the differences are all cosmetic. Although you shouldn't be having any trouble with small movement on yours, so maybe you should get a warranty replacement.
If you like the shape of the DeathAdder and want wireless, there's always the Mamba. It's expensive, but from time to time you can find them cheaper. I got mine for $70 refurbished from Woot.com.
I just realized that the G700 uses a non-Unifying reciever. However it isn't going to be deal-breaker as I am starting to not like the K340 as the keys are way too small for me and the glossy trim is bugging me. I am going to return it back to Amazon.com after my HP Elite Wireless keyboard comes in. Therefore, I don't think the Unity limitation is going to be on my mind.
That being said I was fearing the MX would feel slow compared to the DeathAdder and I won't get used to the slowness after being on the DA for a while, so I agree with you. The people that game with the MX were coming from the Revolution, so they got used to the delay in response time. However, I have been using the DeathAdder for a while, so it would feel sluggish going backwards.
About the Black Edition, I do realize it sounds mad that I am getting the exact thing, but I really despise the glossy sides and my current DA gets cakes of dead skin cells and oils on the side like mad. I prefer a matte/rubberized finish and it is that reason I am going towards the Black Edition. That said, if yours don't have that slight small sensitivity issues, I might send it in for an RMA and then give the replacement to my friend as if the wireless Logitechs don't wet my whistle, I will get the DA Black Edition.
However recently I smashed my corded Microsoft keyboard in a fit of nerdrage over a session of BC2, so I ended up getting a wireless Logitech K340 Keyboard, since I wanted to go cordless for a while. However, I realized that he K340 has Unity, so I was curious of getting a G700 or Performance MX to tie it with.
However, I have heard that the Performance MX is not a good of a gaming mouse and the G700 has some battery life woes and some sensor finickyness when being used wirelessly. So I have decided to might just get the cooler-looking DeathAdder Black Edition and return my K340 for the HP Wireless Elite keyboard to further saving my space profile on my cramped desk.
So fellow people, which mouse you think is better? Do you think Performance MX is a good move to wireless coming from a regular DeathAdder, the G700 a good move, or stick with the corded DeathAdder?
Reply 1 : DeathAdder Black Edition, G700 or Performance MX?
I currently use a Logitech Performance Mouse MX, and have not experienced any issues with it.
Its wireless, but with a small reciever.
Also the driver suite, SetPoint is top notch and works great.
Last thing, i can play games with it.
Have not tried the G700, but i have used my brothers regular Deathadder and its okay too, but drivers are kinda hit & miss.
But i came from a Revolution MX and its designwise very similar to the Performance MX.
DEagleson
Its wireless, but with a small reciever.
Also the driver suite, SetPoint is top notch and works great.
Last thing, i can play games with it.
Have not tried the G700, but i have used my brothers regular Deathadder and its okay too, but drivers are kinda hit & miss.
But i came from a Revolution MX and its designwise very similar to the Performance MX.
DEagleson
Reply 2 : DeathAdder Black Edition, G700 or Performance MX?
Damn I posted in the wrong subforum, can a mod move it to the accessories section? Thanks!
Reply 3 : DeathAdder Black Edition, G700 or Performance MX?
I use a G700 and it's a great mouse. The battery may not last as long as other mice but you can just plug it in if you need a charge and still use it.
The Logitech Performance Mouse MX wouldn't be a bad choice either. I've tried it in stores and it's quite nice.
When it comes to mice Logitech does 'em right.
The Logitech Performance Mouse MX wouldn't be a bad choice either. I've tried it in stores and it's quite nice.
When it comes to mice Logitech does 'em right.
Reply 4 : DeathAdder Black Edition, G700 or Performance MX?
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by ZahariasX
I use a G700 and it's a great mouse. The battery may not last as long as other mice but you can just plug it in if you need a charge and still use it.
The Logitech Performance Mouse MX wouldn't be a bad choice either. I've tried it in stores and it's quite nice. When it comes to mice Logitech does 'em right. |
Also, I made an error in my posting, I am currently favoring to get the upgraded DeathAdder and stick with corded mice over wireless but is there anyone here that can address if the Performance MX is capable of good gaming performance despite being 1500dpi and the G700 still good as a wireless mouse, despite its finickiness?
Reply 5 : DeathAdder Black Edition, G700 or Performance MX?
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Star Forge
However, I realized that he K340 has Unity, so I was curious of getting a G700 or Performance MX to tie it with.
|
Quote:
|
So fellow people, which mouse you think is better? Do you think Performance MX is a good move to wireless coming from a regular DeathAdder, the G700 a good move, or stick with the corded DeathAdder? |
As for the DeathAdder, why get the Black Edition if you already have the regular 3,500 DPI model? It's the same sensor; the differences are all cosmetic. Although you shouldn't be having any trouble with small movement on yours, so maybe you should get a warranty replacement.
If you like the shape of the DeathAdder and want wireless, there's always the Mamba. It's expensive, but from time to time you can find them cheaper. I got mine for $70 refurbished from Woot.com.
Reply 6 : DeathAdder Black Edition, G700 or Performance MX?
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Mastershroom
I don't know if this is a deal-breaker for you, but I'm fairly certain the G700 is not compatible with the unifying receiver; you'll need to plug in its own USB receiver.
I can't comment on the G700's performance, as I don't own it. As for the Performance MX, its main issue is not DPI, but polling/response time. Pretty much any gaming-grade mouse has 1,000Hz polling, which yields 1ms response time. A "normal" mouse like the Performance MX has only 125Hz polling, and an 8ms response time. That increased delay is the main issue with non-gaming mice. As for the DeathAdder, why get the Black Edition if you already have the regular 3,500 DPI model? It's the same sensor; the differences are all cosmetic. Although you shouldn't be having any trouble with small movement on yours, so maybe you should get a warranty replacement. If you like the shape of the DeathAdder and want wireless, there's always the Mamba. It's expensive, but from time to time you can find them cheaper. I got mine for $70 refurbished from Woot.com. |
That being said I was fearing the MX would feel slow compared to the DeathAdder and I won't get used to the slowness after being on the DA for a while, so I agree with you. The people that game with the MX were coming from the Revolution, so they got used to the delay in response time. However, I have been using the DeathAdder for a while, so it would feel sluggish going backwards.
About the Black Edition, I do realize it sounds mad that I am getting the exact thing, but I really despise the glossy sides and my current DA gets cakes of dead skin cells and oils on the side like mad. I prefer a matte/rubberized finish and it is that reason I am going towards the Black Edition. That said, if yours don't have that slight small sensitivity issues, I might send it in for an RMA and then give the replacement to my friend as if the wireless Logitechs don't wet my whistle, I will get the DA Black Edition.
Reply 7 : DeathAdder Black Edition, G700 or Performance MX?
With the G700 you can store the small receiver in the battery compartment as seen here: 
Little convenience there.
I don't have any finickiness with the G700 either. It's got a quite comfortable design one that I personally don't get in the Razer line of mice as well.
Not sure if it's helpful at all for you but I've been using a G5 for years. Still use it for my desktop.
Little convenience there.
I don't have any finickiness with the G700 either. It's got a quite comfortable design one that I personally don't get in the Razer line of mice as well.
Not sure if it's helpful at all for you but I've been using a G5 for years. Still use it for my desktop.
Reply 8 : DeathAdder Black Edition, G700 or Performance MX?
What's this sensor finickness with the g700 you talk about? I have never had a problem with the sensor on my g700.
Reply 9 : DeathAdder Black Edition, G700 or Performance MX?
Logitech' scroll wheels have no business on a gaming mouse, for daily use they rock. But for gaming where precision is required i've noticed my weapons change on their own or I can't effectively change weapons using the scroll wheel. I'm not using the free-spinning mode either. I would recommend the razer to all those you listed.
edit: I should have said, I'm have the performance mx which I use for my thinkpad since I don't game with it.
edit: I should have said, I'm have the performance mx which I use for my thinkpad since I don't game with it.
NetMeter at Download.com looks to be Abandonware.
This title from 2002 looks to be defective or broke and the maker's site is no more.
I can't find how to report such at www.download.com
Bob
I can't find how to report such at www.download.com
Bob
Reply 1 : NetMeter at Download.com looks to be Abandonware.
Just did a search on it and there are 5 titles:
http://download.cnet.com/1770-20_4-0.html?query=NetMeter+&platformSelect=Windows&tag=srch&searchtype=downloads&filterName=platform%3DWindows&filter=platform%3DWindows
Maybe not for the Windows platform?
Provide a link and I'll let the DL team know.
Thanks!
-Lee
http://download.cnet.com/1770-20_4-0.html?query=NetMeter+&platformSelect=Windows&tag=srch&searchtype=downloads&filterName=platform%3DWindows&filter=platform%3DWindows
Maybe not for the Windows platform?
Provide a link and I'll let the DL team know.
Thanks!
-Lee
Reply 2 : NetMeter at Download.com looks to be Abandonware.
http://download.cnet.com/NetMonitor/3000-2381_4-10043855.html?tag=rb_content;main
Sorry it was NetMonitor and is from 2002.
Bob
Sorry it was NetMonitor and is from 2002.
Bob
Reply 3 : NetMeter at Download.com looks to be Abandonware.
If a title appears abandoned and broke, it would be nice to see a way to report it at download.com.
Bob
Bob
alienware nameplate question?
not sure this is in another thread already asked
my question is the alienware nameplates they use when ordering a laptop.
are all of them the same size? dimensions and screw locations? for the m11x m14x m15x m17x?
because i am debating to purchase either a newer m11xr3 or m14 m15 to replace my current m11xr2. because i can sell my current m11x to a co-worker but will a m14x nameplate fit on the m11x?
if i were to order a new laptop and add "his" name on the nameplate, can i just swap out my own m11 plate to the new m14 plate? if thats possible or not? or if it isnt is there a way i can order a new nameplate?
thanks
my question is the alienware nameplates they use when ordering a laptop.
are all of them the same size? dimensions and screw locations? for the m11x m14x m15x m17x?
because i am debating to purchase either a newer m11xr3 or m14 m15 to replace my current m11xr2. because i can sell my current m11x to a co-worker but will a m14x nameplate fit on the m11x?
if i were to order a new laptop and add "his" name on the nameplate, can i just swap out my own m11 plate to the new m14 plate? if thats possible or not? or if it isnt is there a way i can order a new nameplate?
thanks
Reply 1 : alienware nameplate question?
All the same size.. My current name plate on my M11x is from my old 15x that was a POS
Reply 2 : alienware nameplate question?
What an awesome question to ask. Was wondering the same thing - if I go for the M14x and my kid gets this M11, I want it to have his name. Thanks for the reply Mark
Sunday, April 24, 2011
Laptop with Windows 7 won't shut down w/o cord
I have an HP Laptop model 6735b with an AMD Turion DualCore ZM-84 Mobile processor and 2GB of RAM. I purchased it in January 2009 and installed windows XP on it, which I had no problems with. I recently installed Windows 7 on it, and it will not power down or go into hibernate mode without being on external power. When I tell it to hibernate or shut down it will power the screen down, but thats as far as it will go without being plugged in. All of the lights stay on (volume control buttons, wifi indicator, etc.), the hard drive continues to run, and it will stay like this until I plug it in, at which point it will finish its power-down or hibernation. Any suggestions as to why this is happening, and what I can do to fix it? Thanks
Reply 1 : Laptop with Windows 7 won't shut down w/o cord
http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/DocumentIndex.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&contentType=SupportManual&prodTypeId=321957&prodSeriesId=3687779&docIndexId=64179
I didn't find where you installed drivers after the Windows 7 install. But let comment that I'm still finding folk that think that Microsoft has this wired today. They'll install the OS, try Driver Update buttons but don't know that we still get to find the drivers for the system.
Bob
I didn't find where you installed drivers after the Windows 7 install. But let comment that I'm still finding folk that think that Microsoft has this wired today. They'll install the OS, try Driver Update buttons but don't know that we still get to find the drivers for the system.
Bob
Scrapebox Blasting
Does anyone know how safe it is blasting websites with Scrapebox? I bought the program but don't want to abuse it, seems like it can do almost anything in mass amounts. If anyone has any input I would greatly appreciate it.
Reply 1 : Scrapebox Blasting
And way off topic for this forum. SEO tends to attract the scum and worse. I hope you didn't pay for it.
Bob
Bob
Vista, Screen Saver using the Photos file starts then stops
working, been to properties of the photo to check sharing and also looked at power setup. When stopped screen displays a dialogue box saying that screen saver has stopped and I will be notified if a solution is found. Malware, Spyware and virus have been run.
Cookies and temp files have been removed......help?!!
Cookies and temp files have been removed......help?!!
Reply 1 : Vista, Screen Saver using the Photos file starts then stops
I haven't seen MSFT fix this one. You can create this issue pretty easily and it involves pictures the screen saver can't handle. Sorry, I think this bug is going to be around forever.
Bob
Bob
Sleep/Hibernation Option Gone
The Sleep/Hibernation option on my computer is gone. I used to use it all the time but now when I go to the list of power modes, I can't even click on Sleep. I see the option but instead of being in regular font like the other options it is just gray. How can I change this? I have Vista Basic. Thanks
Reply 1 : Sleep/Hibernation Option Gone
if some Service or other has been disabled.
If this worked before what has changed since then?
Access your Services Console through Administrative Tools in the Control Panel, and scroll down to see if "Power" is Automatic or Disabled. Double click the entry to display its Properties and if it is set to Disabled, change that to Automatic, then Start the service.
Another way is offered in the link below;
http://www.bytetips.com/enable-or-disable-windows-hibernation-in-windows-vista/
See if either works.
Mark
If this worked before what has changed since then?
Access your Services Console through Administrative Tools in the Control Panel, and scroll down to see if "Power" is Automatic or Disabled. Double click the entry to display its Properties and if it is set to Disabled, change that to Automatic, then Start the service.
Another way is offered in the link below;
http://www.bytetips.com/enable-or-disable-windows-hibernation-in-windows-vista/
See if either works.
Mark
Reply 2 : Sleep/Hibernation Option Gone
This happened to me too. I had a virus on my computer recently and had to clean a lot of stuff off. I did not intend to but I somehow removed the sleep function. I checked the power settings in "My Computer" to try to add it as an option again but have failed. Any tips?
Reply 3 : Sleep/Hibernation Option Gone
Let's find an article with the require command. (Why isn't this in some GUI?)
http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/re-enable-hibernate-option-in-windows-vista/
Ok, it's a known bug. My question is why didn't Microsoft fix this?
Bob
http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/re-enable-hibernate-option-in-windows-vista/
Ok, it's a known bug. My question is why didn't Microsoft fix this?
Bob
Reply 4 : Sleep/Hibernation Option Gone
Thank you this was very helpful. I was able to turn the "hibernate" feature back on. Do you think this procedure will work for the "sleep" feature as well? Thank you!
Reply 5 : Sleep/Hibernation Option Gone
I'll not discuss how you connect sleep with the buttons but write a short answer about Windows and sleep.
It's a simple thing. Windows asks the drivers if they support sleep and if they do, you see sleep in the menus. No sleep in the menus means, most of the time the drivers for motherboards and such are what you find on the Windows CD/DVD or Windows Update.
Bob
It's a simple thing. Windows asks the drivers if they support sleep and if they do, you see sleep in the menus. No sleep in the menus means, most of the time the drivers for motherboards and such are what you find on the Windows CD/DVD or Windows Update.
Bob
Windows HD Live Movie Maker, my system doesn't meet the requirements?!
Tried to get said program to start, but a box pops up saying that my system does not meet the system requirements which according to the site, I should meet, though it's not explained whether the dual core requirement needs to be 2.4 GHz or higher like the single core requirement, as it might be my issue since I'm on a Vaio CW with an Intel 2.16 GHz i3-330M, along with 4 GB of DDR3, Geforce 310M 256 MB, Win7 64 (full specs in sig).
Funny thing is, I've ran this program before on my lappy here (and it ran surprisingly quite well). I had to reinstall it since I did a full system sweep a couple months back. Damn you MS, my machine is fast enough! My power usage is set to high performance as well. Anyone else have this issue and have a work around? Searching Google was difficult since the words involved did not link me to anything useful. Just mostly system requirement pages and pages with different issues.
I would think people who develop and assign system requirements would be a bit more foresighted about not basing CPU needs on clock speed (assuming this is the issue). An i3, clock per clock, tears a Core 2 Duo to shreds, let alone a Pentium D.
Funny thing is, I've ran this program before on my lappy here (and it ran surprisingly quite well). I had to reinstall it since I did a full system sweep a couple months back. Damn you MS, my machine is fast enough! My power usage is set to high performance as well. Anyone else have this issue and have a work around? Searching Google was difficult since the words involved did not link me to anything useful. Just mostly system requirement pages and pages with different issues.
I would think people who develop and assign system requirements would be a bit more foresighted about not basing CPU needs on clock speed (assuming this is the issue). An i3, clock per clock, tears a Core 2 Duo to shreds, let alone a Pentium D.
Reply 1 : Windows HD Live Movie Maker, my system doesn't meet the requirements?!
Additional required programs: Windows Live Photo Gallery and Windows Media Player Do you have them installed?
Check paging file and if it is enough space for Temp folder
Check paging file and if it is enough space for Temp folder
Reply 2 : Windows HD Live Movie Maker, my system doesn't meet the requirements?!
Did you try installing the live essentials 2011?
Time Warner Cable vs. Satelite (Directv)
Hello all!
I recently purchased an HDTV, along with a Playstation 3. I was wondering if anyone had an recommendation as to whether I should go with cable, using a HD DVR cable box, or go with Directv and their HD service. I watch mostly sports and obviously play video games as well as watch B-ray movies.
I recently purchased an HDTV, along with a Playstation 3. I was wondering if anyone had an recommendation as to whether I should go with cable, using a HD DVR cable box, or go with Directv and their HD service. I watch mostly sports and obviously play video games as well as watch B-ray movies.
Reply 1 : Time Warner Cable vs. Satelite (Directv)
It's a no brainer. DirecTV. More HD channels and more sports packages. Catch Every NFL, NBA, NHL, MLB game as well as NCAA as well. Best decision you'll ever make. Been cable free for 5 years and will NEVER go back. Check out DirecTV's website for ongoing specials.
Reply 2 : Time Warner Cable vs. Satelite (Directv)
i changed to directv from cox cable to get the nfl package...
love it!
be a man... get directv with the nfl package...
dish is for chicks!
love it!
be a man... get directv with the nfl package...
dish is for chicks!
Reply 3 : Time Warner Cable vs. Satelite (Directv)
I haven't had cable in over 13 years. I'm sure there's others that have been off even longer. And now with Vz Fios coming out ,there will be even more dropping them.
Reply 4 : Time Warner Cable vs. Satelite (Directv)
Thanks for replying! I have a question regarding picture quality. It seems like the picture quality on non HD channels with my cable service are just plain old fashion crap! Should I expect the same with Dish? I understand that non HD channels are not going to be as sweet as HD channels.
Reply 5 : Time Warner Cable vs. Satelite (Directv)
but all satellite feeds I've seen suck, IMHO. I've seen them one various Pioneer, Panasonics, Sharp, Sony, etc. It always looks like crap, unless you are far enough on a small enough screen (sports bar, etc).
That being said, I think Time Warner has poor PQ as well.
If your a football guy... then there's no question, DirectTV, of course.
All SD feeds are going to look poorer... how much? well that might depend more on your tv...
That being said, I think Time Warner has poor PQ as well.
If your a football guy... then there's no question, DirectTV, of course.
All SD feeds are going to look poorer... how much? well that might depend more on your tv...
Reply 6 : Time Warner Cable vs. Satelite (Directv)
I understand that DirectTV is way better for viewing the tv. But I am also needing to setup internet and the internet provided by DIrectTV seems REALLY expensive and NOT as fast as Time Warner.....can you sign up for just internet through Time Warner and tv through DirectTV????
What do you all suggest?
What do you all suggest?
Reply 7 : Time Warner Cable vs. Satelite (Directv)
Standard def. broadcasts does look worse on a HIdef tv. One of the downfalls. Yes you can order just internet service from the cable company but they're going to press hard for you to sign for all their services including voice. They'll give you a better price if you do so. Plus it's a fact once some one signs up for a package deal they're less likely to change services because it seems like a hassle to do so. That is why everyone offers the triple play,phone entertainment and internet.
Reply 8 : Time Warner Cable vs. Satelite (Directv)
Football fan, and would love the NFL package and NFL Network, I would still go with cable.
Those features cost a lot. HD on cable is free (other than the ESPN channels which is an extra $5 I think). And I don't care what anyone says, satellite is unreliable.
I have family that has satellite and go over to their houses on Thanksgiving and Christmas, and I can't tell you how annoying it is when I can't watch a Football or Basketball game because it's raining lol. That's right! Because it's raining. Now I'm not saying that this happens every time that it rains, but I've seen it happen a few times, and once is really too much for me.
Let's not even talk about internet because that is like Muhammad Ali boxing a one armed man.
Those features cost a lot. HD on cable is free (other than the ESPN channels which is an extra $5 I think). And I don't care what anyone says, satellite is unreliable.
I have family that has satellite and go over to their houses on Thanksgiving and Christmas, and I can't tell you how annoying it is when I can't watch a Football or Basketball game because it's raining lol. That's right! Because it's raining. Now I'm not saying that this happens every time that it rains, but I've seen it happen a few times, and once is really too much for me.
Let's not even talk about internet because that is like Muhammad Ali boxing a one armed man.
Reply 9 : Time Warner Cable vs. Satelite (Directv)
rain affects satellite signals. They have to boost the signal many times over during storms. I don't know how much its improved, but even planes (and even birds!) would cause messed up transmission.
Cable is usually pricier. But at least you can just rent the equipment. I think the HD-DVR is 10$ a month? can't remember
also, a cable card for the frugal is about 2$ a month for basic channel service.
Again, however much rain, birds, planes can affect the signal, even with perfect conditions, every sat feed Ive seen looks poor. Its not even hi-def really, its more like SD+. There was, or is, a class action suit in LA against Direct TV for falsely advertising hi-def. It wasn't even close... they figured out a way to measure the bit-rate as well during the case. Hopefully their new satellites will improve this PQ, but I doubt because they are all about MORE channels, and WHO CARES about PQ.
Sort of like MP3 and Ipod. Give us MORE SONGS, and SCREW SQ>
Cable is usually pricier. But at least you can just rent the equipment. I think the HD-DVR is 10$ a month? can't remember
also, a cable card for the frugal is about 2$ a month for basic channel service.
Again, however much rain, birds, planes can affect the signal, even with perfect conditions, every sat feed Ive seen looks poor. Its not even hi-def really, its more like SD+. There was, or is, a class action suit in LA against Direct TV for falsely advertising hi-def. It wasn't even close... they figured out a way to measure the bit-rate as well during the case. Hopefully their new satellites will improve this PQ, but I doubt because they are all about MORE channels, and WHO CARES about PQ.
Sort of like MP3 and Ipod. Give us MORE SONGS, and SCREW SQ>
Reply 10 : Time Warner Cable vs. Satelite (Directv)
In the 13 +/- years i've had satellite,it's gone down mabye once a year and only during heavy heavy rain. And i'm talking hard enough that the roof sounded like it was coming down and sustain that for a good half minute or so. I also live within 6 miles of an airport and planes pass within a mile of my home. I also live near wetlands where birds frequent everyday and never have problems. For enterferance by birds a flock would have to be gullet to gullet and large enough to turn day into night. And a plane would have to be able to hover and do it between the line of site to the satellite over the dish to block the signal. It takes a solid object to be able to block satellite signals. When it does when raining it's because the mass amount of water coming down that it's like a barrier.Satellites are very reliable. How do you think cable gets it signals? Go to any cable company yard and you're going to see satellite dishes getting their feeds. Nasa isn't going to f around with unreliable equipment and neither is the FTA. Cable is supseptable to rf signals, grounds and any other type of impediance an antenna would get. It acts like a big antenna going from pole to pole. Grounding is the only thing that saves it. Satellite is on a lease basis as well, $5.99 a month per box and $5 for DVR.
Reply 11 : Time Warner Cable vs. Satelite (Directv)
Thanks for you advice! Sounds like you know what you are talking about. I do however have a question. Which dish service do you have? DishNetwork or Directv? Is there really a difference between the two. In the end, if I end up going with satelite, I may end up just putting it in 6 rooms. What do you think? Also, do you get your internet service through the Dish?
Reply 12 : Time Warner Cable vs. Satelite (Directv)
check it out.
HD (NFL Network incl.) is like 6 buck more. Another six bucks and you get an HD-DVR accessible in any room. Broadcast HD is free.
Internet is pretty inexpensive and can be super fast if you opt for the 15/2 which is 10 bucks more.
I really like how Verizon throws in a 19" HDTV (High-end Sharp) or $200 best buy gift-card (your choice) if you get the Triple-play.
The menu system for the STB(TV) isn't great, but it isn't terrible. You have to install some ugly box (mine's outside) to get FiOS.
http://tinyurl.com/2aw5aw
HD (NFL Network incl.) is like 6 buck more. Another six bucks and you get an HD-DVR accessible in any room. Broadcast HD is free.
Internet is pretty inexpensive and can be super fast if you opt for the 15/2 which is 10 bucks more.
I really like how Verizon throws in a 19" HDTV (High-end Sharp) or $200 best buy gift-card (your choice) if you get the Triple-play.
The menu system for the STB(TV) isn't great, but it isn't terrible. You have to install some ugly box (mine's outside) to get FiOS.
http://tinyurl.com/2aw5aw
Reply 13 : Time Warner Cable vs. Satelite (Directv)
I currently have a month to month with Dish. Contract just ended. Not sure what i'm going to do.Did have Direct for 10 years prior. I noticed a picture differance when I got Dish and not a good one. Direct puts a box at each Tv. Dish is one box for two Tv's unless you wish to pay $5.99 a month for each additional box and $5.00 more each month for DVR for that second reciever. I just have the one box for two Tv setup. In that setup they reverse the signal back up the same coax to get to the other Tv unless you have them run another to it. I opted for the reversal method as I didn't want them attaching coax to my house. I work for Vz and have subsequently learned about different qualities of coax and that I may have older and lower quality coax which deminishes the signal. So quite possibly the poorer picture. I will soon bring home some rg6 from work and rewire my home since I fished all my walls to keep everything off the exterior of my home. But I plan on getting another Dish reciever and place it at my second Tv and see if the picture improves. I've been saying that for 18 months now and still haven't done it. So Directv so far has my nod. Fios. I have heard many great things about this product even though I haven't experienced it and even though I am a Fios MDU Coordinator for Vz. These ooh ahhs have come from customers that say it blows away the local cable company and satellite. Like in the previous post. I think $109.99 plus tax and other fees of course. You get Fios Tv,phone service and internet service which seems like a deal. For me anyway. I currently run $53 a month for Dish and $80 something a month for phone. If it were here in my nieghborhood I'd sign up for a contract to see for my self. And what the hell, never knew anything about Dish before signing and it's been a year and a half already.
Reply 14 : Time Warner Cable vs. Satelite (Directv)
I used Dish for a long time and now have switched to DirecTV's service. There was no need to buy any costly equipments, I received installation of a 4-room DirecTV system alongwith the subscription.
There are absolutely no interruptions as DirecTV delivers a digital signal 99.9% of the time. I also ordered a high-speed Internet connection with the service.
The most important benefit is that my cable & internet bills have reduced.
One more advantage - DirecTV offers channels from across the globe. I was looking out for NDTV 24x7 (Indian news channel) and DirecTV was the only provider in my locality to offer the channel. The rest is history and I am enjoying it.
There are absolutely no interruptions as DirecTV delivers a digital signal 99.9% of the time. I also ordered a high-speed Internet connection with the service.
The most important benefit is that my cable & internet bills have reduced.
One more advantage - DirecTV offers channels from across the globe. I was looking out for NDTV 24x7 (Indian news channel) and DirecTV was the only provider in my locality to offer the channel. The rest is history and I am enjoying it.
Reply 15 : Time Warner Cable vs. Satelite (Directv)
The Direct TV picture is infinitely better than Time Warner's - no contest. I watched the Masters Tournament, favorite sports event of the year, during the five painful days we had Time Warner - fuzzy, and less than vibrant colors... With Direct TV, you see individual blades of grass, etc - all in brilliant colors.
TW has polite customer service reps, but they refused to re-hook our Direct TV (that we thankfully had not canceled) to get us back to where we were before they arrived at our doorstep, so this was a costly, very aggravating experience. They repeatedly told me they would have a service tech call. Never happened. I don't recommend TW's cable TV.
TW has polite customer service reps, but they refused to re-hook our Direct TV (that we thankfully had not canceled) to get us back to where we were before they arrived at our doorstep, so this was a costly, very aggravating experience. They repeatedly told me they would have a service tech call. Never happened. I don't recommend TW's cable TV.
I need help streaming video, software or connection problem?
I am using a new Toshiba Satellite laptop, running Windows 7, and the connection is through a Verizon AC30..if I try to watch video through the net it slows to a stop or won't play at all..I'm not sure what to check, the connection looks to be good??
Reply 1 : I need help streaming video, software or connection problem?
Cellular speed is far from certain. Try the usual trick -> Pause the video so the buffers can fill up.
Bob
Bob
Thursday, April 21, 2011
Do I Need These Updates Right Now
Good Morning, I know you guys hate people asking two questions in one thread but the two updates I am talking about would or could be installed together at the same time.
I use "Auto-Update" on this laptop and I have accepted and installed every update that WU has suggested as necessary. But I occasionally check the site to see if anything new is out there and I found two this morning. WU has suggested that it is important that I consider the Windows Service-Pack 1 for Win 7 x64 and at the same time, they are also suggesting IE-9.
If I understand these Service-Packs correctly, they are just a "collection" of all the updates I may already have installed. And as far as IE-9 goes, I have IE-8 working great and I was wondering if it might be a good idea to wait and make sure they have all the bugs worked out before installing it. I would just like to know if there are any important safety features that I might be missing if I don't do these updates right away. I appreciate any ideas on this subject, thank you.
*-*-*
PS: I am using Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 6.1; en-US; rv:1.9.2.15) Gecko/20110303 Lightning/1.0b2 Thunderbird/3.1.9 on an HP Pavilion dv6 Notebook PC with an Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU Q 720 @ 1.60 GHz & 4.00 GB of (RAM) and a 64-bit OS with Windows 7 Home Premium with Internet Explorer 8.0.7600. 16385 Cipher Strength on a
I am using Open Office 3.2.0 OOO320m12 (Build:9483)
I use "Auto-Update" on this laptop and I have accepted and installed every update that WU has suggested as necessary. But I occasionally check the site to see if anything new is out there and I found two this morning. WU has suggested that it is important that I consider the Windows Service-Pack 1 for Win 7 x64 and at the same time, they are also suggesting IE-9.
If I understand these Service-Packs correctly, they are just a "collection" of all the updates I may already have installed. And as far as IE-9 goes, I have IE-8 working great and I was wondering if it might be a good idea to wait and make sure they have all the bugs worked out before installing it. I would just like to know if there are any important safety features that I might be missing if I don't do these updates right away. I appreciate any ideas on this subject, thank you.
*-*-*
PS: I am using Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 6.1; en-US; rv:1.9.2.15) Gecko/20110303 Lightning/1.0b2 Thunderbird/3.1.9 on an HP Pavilion dv6 Notebook PC with an Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU Q 720 @ 1.60 GHz & 4.00 GB of (RAM) and a 64-bit OS with Windows 7 Home Premium with Internet Explorer 8.0.7600. 16385 Cipher Strength on a
I am using Open Office 3.2.0 OOO320m12 (Build:9483)
Reply 1 : Do I Need These Updates Right Now
Yes, and up to you, in that order.
Service packs should always be installed in short order of their release. They often contain additional patches that were not previously released, so installing them is always a good idea.
Using Internet Explorer however, is NEVER a good idea for any amount of time. Unless the goal is to put your system at greater risk of a malware infestation or worse. You can take your pick between the alternatives of Firefox, Safari, Chrome, and Opera, but you should really pick one of those over IE for security reasons alone.
And the way things work, is the IE9 you'd download today is the same IE9 you would download a year from now. They will inevitably be releasing security updates for it as time passes, but they will not alter the initial distribution once it is released into the wild. You'd probably be wise to install IE9 soon, maybe after you've installed SP1 and things seem to be working okay. Then move to another browser entirely. Since plenty of programs use the IE rendering engine, you should generally have the latest one installed because it's likely to be the most secure. That's not exactly saying a whole lot with IE, but you should take whatever meager improvements you can get.
Service packs should always be installed in short order of their release. They often contain additional patches that were not previously released, so installing them is always a good idea.
Using Internet Explorer however, is NEVER a good idea for any amount of time. Unless the goal is to put your system at greater risk of a malware infestation or worse. You can take your pick between the alternatives of Firefox, Safari, Chrome, and Opera, but you should really pick one of those over IE for security reasons alone.
And the way things work, is the IE9 you'd download today is the same IE9 you would download a year from now. They will inevitably be releasing security updates for it as time passes, but they will not alter the initial distribution once it is released into the wild. You'd probably be wise to install IE9 soon, maybe after you've installed SP1 and things seem to be working okay. Then move to another browser entirely. Since plenty of programs use the IE rendering engine, you should generally have the latest one installed because it's likely to be the most secure. That's not exactly saying a whole lot with IE, but you should take whatever meager improvements you can get.
is the R.A.T 3 any good?
i can get one cheaper then a razer deathadder and i havent had any experience with the r.a.t mouses, anyone use one of have one that could tell me if they are worth the $47
I saw a RAT3 in my local nerd shop once. It looks the same, so I guess it's for people who like the look of the RAT series but can't stretch for the 5/7.
AFAIK it's non-adjustable: http://www.dabs.com/products/saitek-...ouse-75M3.html
So yeah, kind of pointless as far as the RAT series is concerned. But many will buy on looks alone I'm sure.
I would say, given my general experience with Saitek products, that I'd much more trust an entry-level Logitech / Microsoft product than one from Saitek/Mad Catz.
Reply 1 : is the R.A.T 3 any good?
I personally haven't used a R.A.T. 3 but I do own a R.A.T. 7. All I can say about this brand is that it is very reliable and durable.
Reply 2 : is the R.A.T 3 any good?
ok that should be comparable, thanks
Reply 3 : is the R.A.T 3 any good?
I also own a RAT7,here are my 2 issues with it
the way I hold it,my ring finger rubs against the semi-sharp edge on the right button,whic irritated my finger all the time
I prefer the tilt scroll wheel on my logitech mouse over the thumb scroll on this thing
the way I hold it,my ring finger rubs against the semi-sharp edge on the right button,whic irritated my finger all the time
I prefer the tilt scroll wheel on my logitech mouse over the thumb scroll on this thing
Reply 4 : is the R.A.T 3 any good?
I've never heard of the R.A.T. 3, just the 5, 7 and 9. From what I've read, the 7 is the most customizable, and the 9 is a wireless version of the exact same thing. The 5 is less customizable than the 7/9, so I would assume the 3 is even less adjustable than that. Doesn't that sort of beat the purpose of the R.A.T. series?
Reply 5 : is the R.A.T 3 any good?
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Mastershroom
I've never heard of the R.A.T. 3, just the 5, 7 and 9. From what I've read, the 7 is the most customizable, and the 9 is a wireless version of the exact same thing. The 5 is less customizable than the 7/9, so I would assume the 3 is even less adjustable than that. Doesn't that sort of beat the purpose of the R.A.T. series?
|
AFAIK it's non-adjustable: http://www.dabs.com/products/saitek-...ouse-75M3.html
So yeah, kind of pointless as far as the RAT series is concerned. But many will buy on looks alone I'm sure.
I would say, given my general experience with Saitek products, that I'd much more trust an entry-level Logitech / Microsoft product than one from Saitek/Mad Catz.
Reply 6 : is the R.A.T 3 any good?
Not adjustable at all? I thought that was the entire point of the R.A.T. series. >_<
Reply 7 : is the R.A.T 3 any good?
ok im going to go with the deathadder instead, although it looks really cool i do trust razer more then saitek anyhow. thanks guys
Reply 8 : is the R.A.T 3 any good?
The DeathAdder's a real treat; I hope you like it.
Reply 9 : is the R.A.T 3 any good?
thanks me too i ordered a headset with it so when they get here ill let you know how i like them both
Recording DirecTV to computer
Please help. I would like to recording some TV shows to my home computer in a format that I can later download to a disk. I have DirecTV and I have Vista on my computer. Thanks
Reply 1 : Recording DirecTV to computer
http://www.hauppauge.com/
Be sure you have a large hard drive as these captured videos can exceed several Gigabytes per hour.
Be sure you have a large hard drive as these captured videos can exceed several Gigabytes per hour.
Reply 2 : Recording DirecTV to computer
If you have a Direct TV DVR you can output it to a DV recorder at 480i. Blue Ray drives for computers are expensive and the disks are way too high in price. Maybe in a coule of years the price will decrease.
Reply 3 : Recording DirecTV to computer
I do this easily, it involves modifying your PVR drive. E-mail me for details.
Reply 4 : Recording DirecTV to computer
I need to do this in HD with a SA DVR.
Does your method apply to this too?
Does your method apply to this too?
Reply 5 : Recording DirecTV to computer
I've only done this on my Hughes Directv box. I believe other boxes are just as easy. See these forums:
http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/index.php
http://www.dvrupgrade.com/forums/index.php
http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/index.php
http://www.dvrupgrade.com/forums/index.php
Reply 6 : Recording DirecTV to computer
Please send info on the how to modify the DVR to 06Chevy.van@gmail.com
Reply 7 : Recording DirecTV to computer
thanks, I know this thread was back in '08, but am doing this now, and need the help.
TJM
TJM
Reply 8 : Recording DirecTV to computer
I would so much appreciate the information to move my DVR recordings to my PC so I can burn them to DVD without sitting there watching them...
Reply 9 : Recording DirecTV to computer
http://www.snapstream.com/products/beyondtv/
Reply 10 : Recording DirecTV to computer
I have a Geniatech Hybrid ATSC X8000A
card in my pc. I record programs all the time.
just plug the cable from your box to the card and
you click record.
card in my pc. I record programs all the time.
just plug the cable from your box to the card and
you click record.
Reply 11 : Recording DirecTV to computer
what hardware do you have for watching tv? for connecting it to your computer?
Windows 7 Backup does not list external USB Networked drive
I have a networked shared USB connected HD on PC 1 that works fine on PC 1. However when I tried to setup MS Backup for the first time on PC 2, it does not list the external HD called Drive "L". When I open COMPUTER on PC 2, the external drive is shown. Drive "L" is also set for ALL USERS, and shared label is indicated on PC 1. So the million dollar question is, why doesn't it show on the list of available drives to select for backup on PC 2? Also, there isn't any way in the backup setup screen to browse or search for any drives. Stumped!
Reply 1 : Windows 7 Backup does not list external USB Networked drive
While it's better in 7 the past history of Microsoft backup software is one that has me write "use anything else."
Bob
Bob
Needed: low-light camera for photos of documents in archives
I will be research in the archives in South Africa and am looking for a camera that can take readable photos of documents in low-light conditions. I don't want to spend more than $200, so I know this will not be THE BEST camera for low light conditions. But suggestions for workable cameras in this price range are much appreciated. What specs should I be looking for?
Reply 1 : Needed: low-light camera for photos of documents in archives
About $200:
It depends upon how much you know about photography.
For the experienced photographer I would suggest looking at the Fujifilm S1500.
It is an older model but still available:
http://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-FinePix-Digital-Stabilized-Optical/dp/B001QENO7A
For the less experienced photographer I would suggest the new Canon Elph 100HS.
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-PowerShot-ELPH-100-HS/dp/B004J3X5VA
With either camera you will need to use a tripod to support the camera.
because you will likely be shooting at very slow shutter speeds.
--
If you don't want to use a tripod, I have no recomendations at the price of $200.
...
It depends upon how much you know about photography.
For the experienced photographer I would suggest looking at the Fujifilm S1500.
It is an older model but still available:
http://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-FinePix-Digital-Stabilized-Optical/dp/B001QENO7A
For the less experienced photographer I would suggest the new Canon Elph 100HS.
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-PowerShot-ELPH-100-HS/dp/B004J3X5VA
With either camera you will need to use a tripod to support the camera.
because you will likely be shooting at very slow shutter speeds.
--
If you don't want to use a tripod, I have no recomendations at the price of $200.
...
Drilling holes in bottom of old notebook to decrease heat?
I have an old laptop that runs really well. It's an old Fujitsu.
2Ghz Single Core. 2GB of DDR2 RAM, 320GB HDD, WLAN, Bluetooth etc. More than enough for my wife.
The only deal is it gets pretty hot.. I've tried mounting it on a cooler which seems to decrease the heat by only about 3 degrees unfortunately. I also looked at the area for where the fan is to cool the CPU. The holes for the fan to breathe are absolutely tiny.. I was thinking of Drilling a couple of extra holes on the HDD cover bay and the CPU bay just for a start.
Would this make a difference or would I just make a mockery of the underside of my laptop? This cooler isn't really making any difference and the pc gets really hot regardless.. would a few drill holes help with heat dispersion?
I've cleaned out the entire computer with canned air and a high powered vacuum, it looks absolutely spotless.. No idea why it's getting so hot as of late...
Anyway would a few.. or many drill holes make a difference? Also, is there anything else that someone can suggest?
Thanks in advance
+1, you can usually buy thermal paste at almost any computer store (not at big block shops but more local shops).
Also if you drill be careful, you don't want to mess up the pressure of air inside your notebook. Basically what I mean is that the notebook chassis is designed along with the cooling system to get the air to flow a specific route, drill a hole in the wrong spot and airflow may be disrupted, or slowed down.
Also if I remember you bought a generic 3 fan notebook cooler off ebay. Consider getting something that is more appropriate for your notebook such as a Notepal U3, your vents are spread and the U3 should let you target individual vents better.
2Ghz Single Core. 2GB of DDR2 RAM, 320GB HDD, WLAN, Bluetooth etc. More than enough for my wife.
The only deal is it gets pretty hot.. I've tried mounting it on a cooler which seems to decrease the heat by only about 3 degrees unfortunately. I also looked at the area for where the fan is to cool the CPU. The holes for the fan to breathe are absolutely tiny.. I was thinking of Drilling a couple of extra holes on the HDD cover bay and the CPU bay just for a start.
Would this make a difference or would I just make a mockery of the underside of my laptop? This cooler isn't really making any difference and the pc gets really hot regardless.. would a few drill holes help with heat dispersion?
I've cleaned out the entire computer with canned air and a high powered vacuum, it looks absolutely spotless.. No idea why it's getting so hot as of late...
Anyway would a few.. or many drill holes make a difference? Also, is there anything else that someone can suggest?
Thanks in advance
Reply 1 : Drilling holes in bottom of old notebook to decrease heat?
Did you put new thermal paste? I suggest you do that before any drill work. Also what are your temperatures?
Reply 2 : Drilling holes in bottom of old notebook to decrease heat?
HDD Temp is 51C
CPU Temp has gotten up to 77C
GPU Temp has gotten to 66C
I haven't replaced the CPU at all so no I haven't put on new paste. I don't want to open the laptop too much.. they're really hard to put back together and there are tons of wires and such that can come out that I can not notice and forget to put back in.
All in all the laptop is too hot to put your hand on almost.
CPU Temp has gotten up to 77C
GPU Temp has gotten to 66C
I haven't replaced the CPU at all so no I haven't put on new paste. I don't want to open the laptop too much.. they're really hard to put back together and there are tons of wires and such that can come out that I can not notice and forget to put back in.
All in all the laptop is too hot to put your hand on almost.
Reply 3 : Drilling holes in bottom of old notebook to decrease heat?
Well depending on what paste was there you should replace it sooner or later. If laptop is old you better do that. I am not talking about Silver or Diamond pфste but... that temp status must be under 100% stress, not under usual work.
I had one old lappy. That paste became a ROCK! That is why my little 2cm fan was louder than desktop computer.
Look on youtube if someone already disassembled you model
I had one old lappy. That paste became a ROCK! That is why my little 2cm fan was louder than desktop computer.
Look on youtube if someone already disassembled you model
Reply 4 : Drilling holes in bottom of old notebook to decrease heat?
Mmm I could try and dig up some *cough* public manual from the manufacturer that has been 'conviniently leaked' onto the internet. But that might work well too.. I'm just a little reluctant to open it up at this time.
I don't even know where I could buy thermal paste from in Finland... maybe I'd have to try ebay?
This good enough?: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/THERMAL-PASTE-...item19c05b59c7
I don't even know where I could buy thermal paste from in Finland... maybe I'd have to try ebay?
This good enough?: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/THERMAL-PASTE-...item19c05b59c7
Reply 5 : Drilling holes in bottom of old notebook to decrease heat?
I believe it must be some kind of "radio market" where people buy different computer and electronic parts, TV, pults, cables, diods, condensators, resistors, plugs and adapters and other tons of stuff... Well in my country it is usual. Try to find cooler master, zalman, titan or other.
That cheap e-bay thermal grease may be good only for a month if you are lucky. You will need to put new oftenly. Stars is cheap but not very bad as I heard but reviews did not check how long it will last. It is on eBay.
Try to google for Inet-shops which sell this.
That cheap e-bay thermal grease may be good only for a month if you are lucky. You will need to put new oftenly. Stars is cheap but not very bad as I heard but reviews did not check how long it will last. It is on eBay.
Try to google for Inet-shops which sell this.
Reply 6 : Drilling holes in bottom of old notebook to decrease heat?
Don't bother with no name thermal paste. Either IC Diamond 7, Arctic MX3, Or Arctic Silver 5.
Reply 7 : Drilling holes in bottom of old notebook to decrease heat?
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by ronnieb
Don't bother with no name thermal paste. Either IC Diamond 7, Arctic MX3, Or Arctic Silver 5.
|
Also if you drill be careful, you don't want to mess up the pressure of air inside your notebook. Basically what I mean is that the notebook chassis is designed along with the cooling system to get the air to flow a specific route, drill a hole in the wrong spot and airflow may be disrupted, or slowed down.
Also if I remember you bought a generic 3 fan notebook cooler off ebay. Consider getting something that is more appropriate for your notebook such as a Notepal U3, your vents are spread and the U3 should let you target individual vents better.
Reply 8 : Drilling holes in bottom of old notebook to decrease heat?
1. What notebook model do you have?
2. If you buy a thermal paste watch out for the thermal conductivity! A good one will be between 7 and 9 W/(m*K) and won't cost that much. Especially because you're so reluctant to take your laptop apart you shouldn't risk to do this twice because of some crappy paste that only has 5W/(m*K).
3. It seems like you have a dedicated graphics card. When reassembling the laptop watch out for the height difference between CPU and GPU! This is usually bridged by a thermal pad which unfortunately often doesn't survive such a replacement procedure and the gap can't be bridged by thermal paste alone. So you might need a new one. From a thermal point of view a piece of copper sheet would be much better than a new silicone pad. Usually you'll need one with a thickness of 0.6 to 0.8mm.
I've heard of so called liquid metal pads that are said to have the thermal conductivity of pure metal and the ease of use of a silicone pad and might therefore be an alternative for a copper sheet. On the other hand I've also heard that they tend to slip away from the die when trying to fix the heat pipe. Since I've never used them on my own I can't tell you any more about them.
2. If you buy a thermal paste watch out for the thermal conductivity! A good one will be between 7 and 9 W/(m*K) and won't cost that much. Especially because you're so reluctant to take your laptop apart you shouldn't risk to do this twice because of some crappy paste that only has 5W/(m*K).
3. It seems like you have a dedicated graphics card. When reassembling the laptop watch out for the height difference between CPU and GPU! This is usually bridged by a thermal pad which unfortunately often doesn't survive such a replacement procedure and the gap can't be bridged by thermal paste alone. So you might need a new one. From a thermal point of view a piece of copper sheet would be much better than a new silicone pad. Usually you'll need one with a thickness of 0.6 to 0.8mm.
I've heard of so called liquid metal pads that are said to have the thermal conductivity of pure metal and the ease of use of a silicone pad and might therefore be an alternative for a copper sheet. On the other hand I've also heard that they tend to slip away from the die when trying to fix the heat pipe. Since I've never used them on my own I can't tell you any more about them.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)